Why do balls bank short on Diamond brand tables?
As demonstrated in the video below (and in TP B.28), many Diamond brand tables kick and bank much shorter than other brands under similar conditions, especially 9’ Red Label and 7’ bar-box Diamond tables.
The cushions on Diamond tables also usually play much faster than typical tables. One reason is they use Artemus cushions which are bouncy. Another reason is the cushion noses are often lower than normal and are angled down slightly due to the bevel of the sub-rail cushion backing. A lower cushion nose does not drive the ball down into the rail groove of the table as much, so the ball rebounds with more normal (perpendicular) speed creating a shorter rebound and more retained speed. A “Red Label” Diamond can be modified to play more typical by replacing the entire rail structure (with Blue label rails) or by re-cutting the cushion backing bevel angle, but the Blue label Diamonds still bank shorter than other brands.
For examples of how Diamond tables compare to other tables and the tenth-plus-twice system for sliding banks, see:
TP B.28 – Sliding-Bank-Shot Table Comparisons From Careful Measurements
NOTE – When comparing different pool tables or different brands, you need to do so under the same conditions (ball, cloth, and environmental). All tables bank longer with new/slick cloth with polished balls in dry conditions, and all tables bank shorter with old/dirty cloth and balls under humid conditions. The point is this: Diamond tables (especially unmodified Red Labels and bar boxes) bank much shorter than all other brand tables when comparing them under similar cloth, ball, and environmental conditions.
How can I make adjustments to bank shot aim on Diamond brand tables that bank short?
As demonstrated in the video above, when a table plays short, you need to adjust your aim down the rail slightly to make the ball bank longer. Another option is to hit kicks with running spin and to transfer spin to the OB with banks to help them go longer. Every table plays a little differently, and things can vary with cloth conditions, so it is important to practice on a given table to learn how much to adjust.
from Scott Rohleder (in YouTube video comment):
The 2 to 1 and Corner-5 systems work great if you shoot at the calculated number at the rail, not through the diamond. That way instead of just making a small adjustment and guessing how much to adjust for the table, you can aim at the calculated number on the rail and project the line through the diamond area on the rail to have something more concrete to aim at, since aiming at a number on the cushion can be tough to visualize, especially at larger angles. I find the adjustment is usually equal to about 10% – in other words, if aiming from 2nd diamond to 1st diamond to pocket, instead of aiming at 1 aiming at .9 (1 – 10% of 1) usually works. If I was using the Corner-5 system and calculate I need to hit 3 on the rail, I would go down about 10% and aim at 2.7 instead.
For the Plus Two system, a quarter diamond adjustment seems to work very well for a wide range of entry angles. So if I’m on the 4 line let’s say, I just adjust over a quarter diamond and use normal running english. That way I don’t have to play with speeds or additional spin trying to get the ball to turn more or less, which makes the system more consistent as it was meant to be with normal running english.
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